Natural Gas Conversion Kit for Gas Grill Review

Quick Verdict: Who Should Convert Their Grill?

A natural-gas conversion kit makes sense for grill owners who already have a compatible propane grill, a steady natural gas line at the cooking area, and enough comfort with precise, safety-focused work to follow the manufacturer’s instructions closely. In practice, the best candidates are people who grill often, want to skip propane cylinder swaps, and prefer the convenience of a fixed fuel connection. Nexgrill’s own conversion documentation shows that conversion is not a universal add-on; it depends on the grill’s valve design, orifice sizing, and the exact model instructions, so the first question is always compatibility rather than price. The Nexgrill 720-0830MC conversion instruction is an example of a model-specific process, not a one-size-fits-all shortcut.

If you are unsure whether your grill is a fit, think in practical terms. The right candidate usually has a clear conversion path published by the manufacturer, enough internal access to change orifices safely, and a regulator arrangement that can be swapped or adjusted for natural gas. If your grill does not have a listed conversion kit, or the burner manifold is not designed for it, do not improvise with generic parts. That is how you get uneven flame, unsafe gas flow, or a setup that looks converted but performs poorly.

Understanding Grill Compatibility: Which Models Work?

Compatibility is the make-or-break issue. A natural gas conversion kit is only useful if the grill’s burners, valves, manifold, and regulator can be reconfigured for a different fuel type. The important distinction is direction: propane-to-natural-gas conversion is more common, while natural-gas-to-propane conversion exists but is less common and usually requires a different approved kit. The orifices in a natural gas setup are typically larger than propane orifices because natural gas is supplied at a lower pressure, so the conversion is really a metering change, not just a hose swap.

Cross-brand examples help clarify what compatibility looks like. Many popular grills from Weber Genesis or Genesis II, Char-Broil, Monument, and Embers can have conversion options in some model years, but only if the manufacturer offers a kit for that exact SKU or burner configuration. A compatible kit may include drilled holes or model-specific fittings, yet the grill still needs the right manifold and regulator arrangement. If the grill manual does not mention conversion, that is a warning sign. The best evidence is always the product manual or conversion instructions for the exact model, not a forum post or a generic parts listing. Nexgrill’s own model-specific documentation reflects this approach.

The practical rule is simple: if the kit is not designed for your exact grill, do not buy it hoping it will fit later. That is especially important when a brand uses different burner counts, manifold lengths, or control valve spacing within one product family.

Contents of a Natural Gas Conversion Kit

A proper conversion kit is more than a hose. Most kits include a set of natural-gas orifices or orifice inserts, a regulator or regulator adapter, a natural gas hose, and a socket tool or wrench for removing the original parts. Some kits also include labels, drilled LP/NG hole markers, and instructions that specify which burner positions need which parts. The reason the contents matter is that each piece controls flow and pressure. A good conversion is a system change, not a cosmetic one.

A kit that arrives with the wrong orifice sizes can leave you with flames that are too tall, too weak, or uneven across burners. The orifice sizing is one reason conversion is model-specific, and why altitude can matter as well. At higher elevations, air density changes combustion behavior, so a burner that looks fine at sea level may need more careful tuning elsewhere. Manufacturers account for that in their instructions when they provide regional guidance.

Step-by-Step Installation Guide

Start with the grill completely cool, the gas supply off, and the cylinder disconnected if you are converting from propane. Read the model instructions first, because the order of disassembly is not the same on every grill. Usually, you remove cooking grates and flame shields, access the burner manifold, and then swap the factory orifices for the natural gas versions. If the regulator must be changed, do that exactly as directed; some systems use a conversion screw or cap, while others require full replacement.

After the orifices are installed, reconnect the hose to the natural gas supply and route it so it will not pinch, melt, or rub against hot surfaces. Reassemble the firebox, then inspect every fitting before opening the gas valve. If your kit includes a socket tool, use it to avoid rounding or overtightening the soft brass parts. Tighten firmly, but do not force the fittings beyond the manual’s instructions. The best installations feel methodical, not rushed.

Leak Testing: Ensuring Safety Post-Installation

Leak testing is non-negotiable. Mix a small amount of dish soap with water and brush or spray it on every connection, including the hose ends, regulator junctions, manifold fittings, and any converted joints. Open the gas supply slowly. If you see bubbles forming and growing, shut the gas off immediately and correct the leak before lighting the grill. A stable, non-bubbling film means the connection is holding under pressure. This is the same basic safety principle used in many appliance instructions and user manuals across grill brands.

Once the system passes the soap test, light the burners one at a time and confirm that ignition is clean and the flame pattern is even. If the grill has a side burner or rear burner, test those separately. Do not assume a main-burner pass means every other circuit is safe. After the first test, recheck connections again once the metal warms slightly. That final inspection often catches fittings that were technically tight but not fully seated.

Try comparing two products side by side below to see which fits best: one with a factory natural-gas path and one that needs a conversion kit.

Flame Quality: Tuning for Optimal Performance

Once you've weighed two options against each other, the next question is how the flame actually behaves after conversion. A properly tuned natural gas grill should produce mostly blue flames with small yellow tips at ignition or during brief fluctuations. Persistent yellow, lazy, or lifting flames usually point to an adjustment issue: the wrong orifice size, incomplete air shutter setup, excess grease or debris, or a regulator that is not matched to the fuel source. In the field, yellow flame complaints are often not about the grill being “bad”; they are about the gas-to-air ratio being off.

If flame quality looks weak, check the air shutters and burner ports before assuming the kit failed. If flames are too large or noisy, stop and verify that the natural gas orifice set matches the grill model and BTU demand. Some grills need a longer burn-in and a second round of fine tuning after the metal components settle. For best results, adjust one burner at a time and compare the flame across all burners. The goal is even height, steady color, and no soot on cookware or grates.

Cost Analysis: Is Conversion Worth It?

For many homeowners, the math is what makes conversion attractive. A conversion kit is usually far less expensive than replacing a perfectly good grill, and natural gas often costs less per unit of heat than buying propane refills, especially if you grill frequently. That said, the real cost is not just the kit price. You should factor in the gas line access, possible plumber labor, replacement parts, and the time spent installing and testing.

If you grill several times a week, the convenience of natural gas can be worth it even before you calculate fuel savings. If you cook only a few times each season, the payback period stretches out and the benefit becomes more about convenience than savings. The best value case is a well-built propane grill that still has plenty of life left, paired with a confirmed conversion path and an existing gas supply. In that scenario, the upgrade can extend the usefulness of the grill without forcing a new purchase.

Safety Considerations and Local Codes

Safe conversion depends on more than careful wrench work. Local fuel-gas codes, utility rules, and home installation requirements can affect whether you may connect a grill directly to an existing line or need a plumber to make modifications. In many U.S. areas, any new gas line branch, shutoff valve change, or permanent connection is best handled by a licensed professional. Even if the conversion kit itself is homeowner-installable, the gas supply connection may not be.

Keep clearances, ventilation, and hose routing in mind. Natural gas grills are typically stationary, so the setup should not be treated like a portable cylinder appliance. Do not place the hose near sharp edges, do not run it through doors or windows, and do not bypass safety components to gain more flame. If the grill manual or local code conflicts with your plan, the manual and code review come first. That protects both the appliance and the household.

Common Mistakes to Avoid During Conversion

The most common mistake is using the wrong kit because the product name sounds close enough. The second is skipping the leak test or doing it only once. A third is changing the orifices but forgetting the regulator configuration. Other avoidable errors include over-tightening fittings, ignoring yellow flame after startup, and assuming all burners will behave the same even when one port is partially blocked. Another frequent problem is mixing propane and natural gas parts in the same assembly, which can create confusing symptoms and a dangerous setup.

A simple checklist helps prevent those failures: confirm the exact grill model, verify the kit part number, inspect every orifice, test every joint with soap solution, light each burner separately, and record the final setup so you can service it later. If the flame pattern stays inconsistent after that checklist, stop and consult the manufacturer or a qualified technician rather than guessing.

FAQ: Your Conversion Questions Answered

Can any grill convert to natural gas? No. The grill must support the correct orifices, manifold, and regulator configuration.

Is a natural-gas-to-propane kit available? Sometimes, but it is less common than propane-to-natural-gas kits and is still model-specific.

Why is my flame yellow after conversion? The most common reasons are wrong orifice sizing, insufficient air mix, debris in burner ports, or an incorrect regulator setup.

Is DIY conversion worth it? It can be, if the kit is approved for your grill, you already have gas access, and you are comfortable following a leak-tested installation process. Otherwise, hiring a pro is the safer path.

Sources

• How to Convert Your Monument Grill to Natural Gas